‘The ‘Hallshead’ chain of highway motels is largely confined to the Midwest, with something of a tail that works its way southeast as far as New Mexico. Like its many cousins, ‘Hallshead’ was at its peak in the days of the nuclear family, catering specifically to the road-weary traveling salesman who, after a day of hauling encyclopedias, would want nothing more than to slide into a warm bath shaped exactly like their own body.
Yes- exactly.
It is the ultimate validation of the masculine ego, the form-fitting bath. This is not the opinion of the author but a sample taken directly from ‘Hallshead’s’ fairly intense advertising campaign, one that centered on the bathtubs and largely ignored any other amenities, including the rooms. Billboards featured illustrations of a man perfectly encased in porcelain, his eyes wide and his genitals graciously censored by a cloud of soap bubbles. The man did not look relaxed. He looked as though he was having a revelation.’
Research suggests that the ‘Hallshead’ franchise went under sometime after this copy of Autumn by the Wayside was published, but a little digging churns up an address in western Minnesota: the ‘Hallshead Motel’ that held out the longest.
Hector and I drive by a few times before I realize what the problem is: the building is gone, or else its so fallen into disrepair that it can no longer be seen from the highway. Once that’s clear, I take a chance on the likeliest exit and, sure enough, find a sun-bleached sign still pointing the way to an old foundation, thick with weeds and rebar.
We’re far enough off the beaten path, by then, that I give Hector the run of the place and he gets to work, chewing down some dandelions that have lasted into autumn and I get to work scouting the place for anything of interest. Near the back, I find a place where a wall has collapsed and I spy one of the motel’s famous tubs underneath. The wood is rotted and light. I’m able to clear it after a few minutes.
The bath is too clean to have been exposed to the elements, though nothing else around me suggests that the collapsed wall was some sort of clever camouflage. It’s a strange make, too, consisting not only of the signature silhouette-style tub for a man about my size, but also a small, oval-shaped basin to the side. I circle the tub and lean forward, trying to align my arm with the arm-shaped indention. My hand slides into it and I feel the ceramic tightening comfortable along my fingers- a perfect fit. It hasn’t occurred to me that I might want to climb into the tub until now.
Something tugs at my jeans an I jump. Hector has found me again and he sniffs curiously at the old wallpaper. I pick him up before he can eat any and have nearly turned away when it hits me. I lower Hector into the basin and his eyes go wide. A perfect fit.
I don’t know if you’re supposed to bathe rabbits. I’ve never given Hector a bath but it seems a shame not to take the opportunity now. A small creek runs behind the foundation- runoff from rain in the mountains, I think. Its cold but Hector doesn’t mind and he emerges from the bath cleaner and calmer than I’ve ever seen him.
-traveler