When I was walking everywhere, walking and hitchhiking, there was time to acclimate to a place, the weather, the people, the altitude. The bike gets me where I’m going before my body can catch up. I become lazy, almost immediately. I reacquaint myself with gas station junk food, with fountain drinks. I keep a rope of licorice in my mouth, like a cigarette. It droops out from under my helmet and it’s dusty by the time I get to the end.
The air becomes cold and subsequent licorice stiffens beyond my ability to consume it.
I stop trying.
‘Ski resorts are expensive and ‘The Lodge at Mt. Smith’ hardly breaks the mold, proudly touting a review from its inaugural year describing it as: “Needlessly beautiful.” An interesting phrase, to say the least.
Whether it is needful or not, ‘The Lodge’ is quite beautiful indeed. It is a mansion built of cabins, a forest of dead trees, rounded and polished and carefully insulated. The owners have cultivated an awe-inspiring atmosphere, an atmosphere that continues to awe past a certain level of comfort, a beauty that leaves a person hushed. The hush hangs about ‘The Lodge’ like held breath, like breath held by hands on a throat. It is stifling.’
There is no dodging the bill with this one, I’m afraid. There is nowhere to stay near ‘The Lodge at Mt. Smith’ except for in ‘The Lodge’ itself and it is cold, reader. It is very cold outside. I get as far as digging through the snow to the surface of the hard, frozen ground and there, bending my tent stakes, I realize it is ‘The Lodge’ or nothing.
And it can’t be nothing either.
A pretty man steps out of the door as I pull up to the front of ‘The Lodge.’ He steps out casually, as though greeting me is a coincidence, and his wave expresses a warmth that has not been wasted on me in a very long time.
“Good afternoon, sir.” he says, as though speaking to an old friend, “You can just leave your bike there and we’ll take it to the garage.”
“I can take it myself,” I tell him, “It’s… tricky.”
“She will be in good hands.”
The man pulls away gracefully and I wonder if the handlebars won’t stain his white gloves with rust.
I step into the lodge and am immediately a sore, my dirty self in dirty clothes, a vagrant in every sense of the word. This is a still place, and, yes, a beautiful one. Not the sterile beauty I had expected, either, but warm like the man’s wave. A fire cracks joyfully into the chimney on the wall opposite. It reminds me I am cold.
“Please, sit down.”
A man I didn’t see, a handsome, older man, speaks to me from a plush chair near the fire. He turns back to the flames as I cross the room and he rests his slippered feet on a table. Near them are two steaming mugs- as though somebody who was once here, has gone.
“Rest for a moment,” he says, “Was that your motorbike outside? A noisy thing.”
“Sorry,” I tell him.
“Where are you coming from?”
“From all over.”
“The hot chocolate is for you,” he says, but he stops me before I can reach out, “Too hot still. Another minute, maybe. Rest.”
I sit back in the chair and try to be annoyed by the rebuke. I find it difficult.
“How did you learn about ‘The Lodge at Mt. Smith?’
“A travel book.”
“And how long do you intend to stay?”
The heat from the fire flirts with the edge of discomfort. A few inches closer and it would be unpleasant, but here…
“Only a night, I think.”
“Try the cocoa,” he says, “And then we’ll get you to your room.”
They ask me to pay up front, the only indication that a man that looks like me might be suspicious in a place like this. I do, and it is painful, but I am led down a hall by a beautiful woman to a small but equally beautiful room.
“Will you be skiing?” she asks.
“Not if it costs extra.”
“Well,” she smiles, “We have a small library that overlooks the slope. Perhaps we’ll see you down there.”
They have a funny definition of ‘small.’ The library is a communal sitting room and the only wall that is not comprised of books is the great glass window turned toward the mountain. The ceiling here is high and the room is large but cut, tastefully, into smaller sections by a discrete arrangement of furniture. Coffee brews somewhere out of sight and candles flicker despite the midday sun. I think, for a moment, that I hear soft music but, as I listen, it turns out to be nothing at all. This room, too, is beautiful.
But the people in it are ugly.
I can tell immediately that the people resting in the chairs or speaking quietly amongst themselves are not employees. Some are pale and others sickly-yellow. Their clothes fit awkwardly, fabrics and patterns clash like warring nations across their bodies. Many have drooping eyes or sagging fat or deep, gray frown lines. These people are outrageously ugly.
I sit in a chair away from the others, facing the window, and I wipe my hands on my pants and feel myself on the edge of sweating. ‘The Lodge’ is a warm place, the air is thick and pressing. There is a quiet rattle near my arm, the sound of a man setting a cool glass of water out for me. He is lean and smiling, his teeth as white as snow, and he steps away without saying a word.
I am left to my thoughts.
Another guest joins me, eventually, sitting across the way because there is nowhere else to sit. Neither of us brought something to distract our eyes and we stare in disgust when we don’t think the other is looking. What does she have to be disgusted by, this woman with a crooked half-smile and a wallpaper dress? I am no looker, but neither is…
I take a drink of water and spy my reflection in the glass table. It is crystal clear and hideous. I am reminded, suddenly, of the ice at ‘Black Lake’- a bad place. I look around at the ugly people in the room and realize this is a bad place, too, or a good place that makes things bad in relation.
All at once, the beauty of ‘The Lodge’ becomes stifling, just as the author said it would. I choke on my breath and become increasingly self-conscious, increasingly unable to ignore the reflection in my peripheries. I stand and excuse myself to no one in particular and I lock myself in the beautiful closet of a room and I stare, in horror, at the mirror.
This will not do.
I pack my things, taking only a moment, and I leave quietly on plush carpets and uncreaking wood. Nobody takes any note of my agitation.
I push open the door and take a deep breath, anticipating cold after so much thick heat. But it is more than cold. The air that fills my lungs is frigid and tissue thin. I gasp on it. I wheeze. The sun’s reflection off the snow is blinding and that sudden illumination rots the world around me. Every splintered tree and flaking bird, the crawling, molding, moist creatures of the melting snow wriggle in and out of sight.
The world is a bad place, relative to ‘The Lodge at Mt. Smith,’ and that knowledge is a poison.
I walk inside again, expecting relief, but what I find, there, is respite, tenuous and unpromising.
-traveler
